A Tale of Two Temples

A Tale of Two Temples

To outsiders, Cambodia has long been thought of as a mystical and spiritual place. Ancient rites of religion and superstition have always been a part of the Khmer way of life. This is especially true of Battambang, a place where religion and superstition reign supreme.

The name Battambang comes from two Khmer words; bat, which means lost, and dombong, which translates to stick or staff. The story goes that long ago, a powerful Neak Ta, or spirit, lost his magical staff somewhere in Battambang province. He decided to remain, close to his staff, and so now the province is endowed with supernatural powers which makes it strong, powerful, and protected.

Upon driving into Cambodia's second largest city, one of the first things you see is the looming statue of Neak Ta Dombong Krownew, the divine spirit who lost his staff, and who now oversees and protects the city and it's inhabitants.

Battambang has always been a hotbed of sacred areas, and temples. In fact, visitors may find it difficult to choose which temples to visit, especially if on a limited time schedule.

One of the holiest, and most scenic temples around Battambang town is Wat Phnom Sampov, located on top of a mountain. To get there you must drive about 20km from the city on a dirt road which spews up clouds of reddish, orange dust that settles on the roadside trees, houses, and of course, anybody who happens to be driving or walking on the road.

At the temple, tourists must pay a $2 entry fee to the local tourist police, which is quickly pocketed, and locals can enter for free.

Like any hilltop temple in Cambodia, the climb to the top is steep, hot, and lined with beggars of all ages, genders, and physical constitutions. It's best to change some dollars into small riel, and gain some good karma by donating a few hundred riel to the less fortunate.

Halfway up the hill, there is a small shrine with a large reclining Buddha, housed amongst white walls covered in bright blue prayers written in Khmer script. This is a good place to stop and take a breather on the thoughtfully provided benches and chairs.

Temple goers will be relieved to finally reach the top, and offer some prayers and incense to the small Buddhist temple, and the adjacent, larger Chinese temple, both decorated with eclectic statues of gods, tigers, and dragons.

As you make your way past the temples, you will come across a number of caves and niches in the rocks. A nun often presides over the caves, sitting in a niche in front of a few vividly coloured posters of the Buddha. For a mere five hundred riel she will bless you with holy water, and give you some incense or candles to burn.

A few feet away is the gruesome site where the Khmer Rouge smashed in the heads of their victims, and threw the bodies down a hole in the roof of the cave. Some of the victim's bones still lay at the site, beside flowers, incense, and a donation box.

Walking down the long winding road to the bottom, you can take in the commanding views of the surrounding countryside, and distant mountains.

Often, the journey can be just as pleasing as the destination. This is certainly true of Wat Ek Phnom, about 12km from downtown Battambang.

The ride to Wat Ek Phnom takes you along the Western bank of the Sangker River, which bisects Battambang city. Along the banks are many small wooden houses set amidst beautiful, lush flowering bushes, cactuses, and coconut trees.

After a pleasant thirty-minute drive through the peaceful, shady, riverside villages, you reach Wat Ek Phnom, which is situated in the midst of a clearing in the jungle-like foliage.

The temple itself is an impressive collection of ancient stone structures, built in the eleventh century in the Angkorean style. Visitors can climb up the piles of fallen stones, and view many of the intricately carved lintels, found on top of the crumbling doorways.

Next to the ruins is a modern temple of the same name, which is quite large, and elaborately decorated with scenes of the Buddha's life. Each set of stairs leading up to the four cardinally directed doors is flanked by two nagas, or sacred snakes, painted in intense blues, greens, reds, and gold. Outside the temple stands a row of five smiling monk statues, gleaming white, and standing guard in various positions of prayer.

These are just two of the many temples that are peppered across Battambang province. Visitors who do a bit of exploring are likely to come across many other popular spiritual havens, as well as remote temples, hidden away in the countryside.

And at most temples, the monks are friendly, welcoming, and eager to talk to tourists, giving you the perfect opportunity to take in some culture, and demystify a bit of the unique Cambodian tradition of spirituality and superstition.

July 16, 2008
7th Edition of The Advisor