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Remote island of Ulleungdo holds unique charm

Ulleungdo, or Ulleung Island, may not be as famous or popular as Korea's most well-known resort island of Jeju or Jejudo. Yet when it comes to beauty and charm, Ulleungdo can still compete. Ulleungdo, located about 120 kilometers east of the Korean peninsula, is a pentagon-shaped rocky island formed by ancient volcanic eruptions. Because of its seismic formation, there are high and steep cliffs all over the island.

The amazing views from the observation point have been hailed as one of the top ten views in Korea by Korean magazines.

It still makes many wonder how nature could create such a beautiful place like Ulleungdo. The island, somehow looking like a floating forest because it is covered in lush green trees, is well known for its scenic beauty as well as for its produce, which includes squid and pumpkin taffy.

To many Koreans, it feels like the island, which stretches across a 73 square-meter landmass with a population of some 10,000 inhabitants, is in some remote place, removed from the rest of the world and unreachable. And it is true to some degree because it is not easy to get there.

Ulleungdo has no airport, so the only way to get there is to spend three hours on a boat from either Mukho harbor in Gangwon-do (province), or Pohang, Gyeongsangbuk-do (province) to get to Dodong Harbor, Ulleungdo's main port of entry. There is usually only one ferry a day from each port except during the summer peak time and if the weather doesn't permit, the boat may not operate and people can't come to or leave the island when they have planned.

So it may not be an easy journey to get to the island, but once you get there, you are likely to put the difficult journey out of your mind, because it is all worth it.

When you first arrive at Dodong Harbor, you may feel something is weird or mysterious because this port is somewhat different from other harbors in that it has the appearance of a village nestled in the mountains.

The highest peak of the island is called Seonginbong Peak, and there is a village along the coastline on the slope. On the north side is a crater, which collapsed to create the Nari and Albong Basins.

You can clime up to Seonginbong Peak, which rises 984 meters above sea level, starting at Dodong Harbor via Anpyeongjeon. You had better take a taxi between Dodong and Anpyeongjeon because walking between the two areas is not easy.

A breathtaking view is guaranteed from standing on the summit of Seonginbong Peak. There, you can look over the two basins. The Nari Basin is said to be the only crater in the world with a small village on its lip. Another attraction of the island is the Taeha Lighthouse. The amazing views from the observation point have been hailed as one of the top ten views in Korea by Korean magazines.

While on Ulleungdo, you can walk around its circumference, but the best way to conquer the island is to take the road along its south coast and drive through the areas between Dodong, Namyang and Gu-am.

Along the 14.6-kilometer seaside route you will spot many fascinating rocks resembling, for instance, bears, lions or pigs. Since there is not much public transportation on the island of Ulleungdo, traveling by rental car is much easier.

The roads are windy and may be difficult for new drivers to manage, so only experienced drivers should rent cars. There is also an impressive boat cruise around the whole of Ulleungdo and adjacent islands. This tour lasts about two hours. When you get hungry, try the delicious local squid, famous throughout Korea.

The squid is seasoned and cooked in a variety of ways, or sometimes served raw. Up to 70 percent of Korean squid is caught in the waters off Ulleungdo. Naejangtang, a soup made of squid intestines, is a dish rarely found elsewhere.

Another seafood dish popular on the island is honghap-bap, rice cooked with chopped mussels. Mussels caught around Ulleungdo are about four times the size of mussels sold on the mainland.

How to get there:

There are two ferry terminals from the mainland that operate ferries to Ulleungdo Island: Pohang Ferry Terminal and Mukho Ferry Terminal.

Except during the peak season from July to August, there is usually only one ferry a day from each port. Ferry times tend to vary depending on weather conditions, so it is best to call and check in advance. Call the Travel Phone at +82-2-1330 (English, Korea, Japanese, Chinese). For those departing from Seoul, the Mukho Ferry Terminal will be easiest and for those departing from the Busan area, the Pohang Ferry Terminal will be closest.

  • Pohang Ferry Terminal : +82-54-242-5111~5
  • Mukho Ferry Terminal : +82-33-531-5891
  • Ulleung Ferry Terminal : +82-54-791-0831~3

This article appeared on www.korea.net

July 30, 2008

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