Phnom Penh Traffic 101

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For the Western mind, it's fair to say that things work strangely in Cambodia, some would say in reverse. As the cliché goes, Cambodia is a country of stark contradictions and there is no better symbol of this than the traffic of Cambodia's chaotic capital, Phnom Penh.

The stuff of legends, traffic in Phnom Penh can best be described as liberal, at worst, all out anarchy - where vehicular laissez-faire mixes with rigid SUV authoritarianism depending on what side of might you find yourself on in the event of an accident.

Try walking 5 metres in a straight line on any sidewalk without something running into you. Try driving, and following the road rules which are commonly accepted in other countries (such as obeying the traffic lights, or doing a logical U-turn).

While seated in the local police office a year ago (on entirely non-traffic-related business) I recall seeing a color poster illustrating the laws of right-of-way at intersections for cars, tuk-tuks, motorcycles and bicycles (each had different rights in different situations). I remember be surprised to realize that I had been ranting and raving for drivers cutting me off at intersections (the ones without signs or lights) when in fact, they had the legal right of way.

I asked the kindly, well-mannered police officer if there was a brochure of this poster I could take, but he just shrugged and said "dunno."

Driving schools have rule books in English.