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Identity crisis or multiculturalism incarnate; call it what you will but Riverhouse is a veritable grab-bag of culture, theme, color and patron. As Almira, the sprightly manager, explained to us - formerly French cuisine is now being geared toward an "international" mix, with a heavy leaning on Mediterranean specialties (couscous being a chef favorite).
International implies contrasts, and contrasts might even be an understatement - but the restaurant and its associated nightclub, the Riverhouse Lounge, is certainly representative of the eclectic mix of entertainment in this city.
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From its exterior, the grand colonial façade of Riverhouse makes a perfect exterior for a Hollywood period-piece. Inside, patrons dine in the comfortable, well-lit interior or outside at pleasant wicker tables.
Another option - popular among glitzy tourists and government elites - is to reserve a table in the VIP dining area, a separate room with a lofted overhang that resembles either a cruise boat or piano bar. Tinkling music and attentive wait-staff is countered on a Saturday night by "I Wanna Sex You Up", the 1991 hit blaring from the Lounge upstairs.
Despite the confused ambience, the menu was extensive and decidedly enticing. Tangines, ratatouille, satays, rabbit, lamb, and beef - there was no doubt we were here to indulge. Settling on chateaubriand and rabbit in mustard sauce (for my British dining mate) we delved in.
The steak itself was superb, but the side of home-fries with bacon bits and onions reminded me a bit too much of the Dixie Truck Stop in Normal, Illinois USA. Not one to eat meat that still resembles its former shape, I was pleasantly surprised by the number of times I reached over to stick my fork in my mate's meal. Tender and nicely seasoned, the rabbit was also accompanied by fettuccine with thick strips of real parmesan.
During dessert - chocolate profiteroles - two scantily clad Lounge promoters entered the VIP dining room and encouraged a table of four to purchase VIP cards, allowing them discounts in the future to the club and other associated establishments. From over our shoulders the deals sounded good, but as the only other occupied table in the VIP dining area, we were completely left out of this persuasive marketing.
Despite this minor setback, the profiteroles were worth waiting for before we made our way up the narrow staircase to the Lounge and remodeled VIP area. If a successful dance-party has anything to do with a trend toward liberalism, I'd say Saturday night at the Lounge moved us in the right direction.
A barrage of French University students on holiday, swanky Italian tourists, and mainly young Khmers were shaking their groove thing to a popular DJ, who, early in the night was being filmed by a camera crew. The small dance floor only added to the vibe that this was the place on Saturday night.
And if you needed to rest your active feet, a deep couch in a dimly lit, ultra-modern seating area reminded you that you needn't be in New York or London to go clubbing. At the Riverhouse Lounge, you could have it all - French façade, Mediterranean cuisine, London civility, American rump-shaking, and all among your best Cambodian friends. Citizen of the world? I think so.
- by Claire Superfine.
Riverhouse
Restaurant: Mediterranean 10:30 AM - Midnight
#6, Street 110 (corner of Sisowath Quay)
Tel: 023-212302
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