The Koh Ru bungalows of Bamboo Island [ Koh Russei ], have always seemed to be something of an enigma to me. While the nearby beaches of Sihanoukville are rammed with tourists and vendors hawking endless tat, this particular island has managed to preserve its quietness and exclusivity.
The boat trip from Bar Ru, Occheutel Beach is a mere $10 return and takes just an hour to deliver you away from swarming beach chaos and into the arms of a peaceful retreat up there with the best kept secrets in the world.
What's more extraordinary is that it's actually cheaper to take a bungalow on the Island than a good deal of the noisy claustrophobic guesthouse rooms on the beach.
Facilities however are "non-ensuite", but are comprehensive with western toilets and showers, more than enough to ensure that you are comfortable no matter how much alcohol you imbibe under the influence of severe sunburn.
Power is provided from 17:30 to midnight, or until the last person crawls back from the large but peaceful family run bar to their candle lit cabin.
The boat can drift you over both ways in a day if you are on a tight schedule. But to really soak up this heavenly relaxing atmosphere, a private sea view bungalow within a step of the sea is the connoisseurs' choice. There's little to compete with the gentle lullaby of the waves easing you to sleep as the cool ocean breeze slips through your cabin. Luxury like this at 10$ a night is sure to be short-lived.
For the energetic, snorkels are available from the bar or a short walk to the other side of the island reveals more bars, music, and ensuite bungalows for the younger at heart. Personally, I prefer the tranquility and unbroken ocean view that the "Bar Ru" beach offers. I had stayed here 3 times before even realising there was an "other side"!
The real reason for visiting though and the island's greatest secret lies in the water at night. The natural phosphor which occurs at this time of year is simply awesome. Getting wet after dark is not a choice; you have to, sans-clothing even better. There really is nothing better on a thick starry night than gliding about in the dark water illuminated by a million tiny sparkling lights. If at first you don't find a patch, persevere and you will succeed.
So don't hang around waiting for what you take for granted to disappear behind guarded fences, get your toes onto that sand, and a cheap beer in your hand whilst you still can.